Flea Markets in Paris

Marche d'Aligre is one of the lesser spoken about flea markets in Paris, in fact no-one ever told me about it, I found a small mention in a magazine years ago. The three well known markets (more info on those below) are all next to the periferique, the main road that circles Paris and they are all weekend markets - some are open Monday too - but the brocante at Place d'Aligre is open every morning except Monday so you have more opportunity to visit it.

At first it looks like alot of antiques but get further in and there are stalls like this with boxes and boxes of stuff - far more promising for bargains!

This market shares the Place with an amazing fresh food market and an indoor food market. There are cafes around so it's a good morning out with lots to look at and buy and a coffee stop; it's about 5 minutes walk from Metro Ledru-Rollin on Line 8, a little south east of the Bastille area in the 12th arrondissement.

I can really recommend a morning in this neighbourhood. I went on a Tuesday that was actually a public holiday (victory day) and lots of places were closed so I was happy to turn a corner and find everyone busy and working as normal.

Puces de Montreuil

I really like the grubbier markets because I'm looking for old kitchen stuff for my work and so the Marche aux Puces at Porte de Montreuil in the south east is a favourite. It's open all weekend and Monday though most will pack up at Monday lunch time. Warning - This is not picturesque Paris. Go to Porte de Montreuil metro, line 9 then walk east (follow the crowds) on the left around a portion of a huge roundabout (Place de la Porte de Montreuil) and you'll come off at the start of some stalls. For the brocante walk down it's hill, turn left and follow the bottom aisle all the way north til it ends - the other aisles are all new stuff. When you get to what appears to be the end do continue 40 yards or so up Avenue Gallieni as there is a yard on the right with alot more stalls; proper scruffy stuff here so good for a proper rummage. I found quite a few things for my work here. There are no collectibles and trendy stuff up this end, it's like boxes of stuff found on the streets or from house clearances so it's not chic at all and regular tourists would not come here. I read some reviews on the link and see some people felt scared here and one got pick-pocketed - well you need to be careful of that in every big city but yes this is more edgy and may not be for you but I've always felt fine here as I don't look like a tourist or ever have a ladylike handbag etc. 

Marche aux Puces de St Ouen also known as Marche aux Puces de Porte de Clignancourt

There  is plenty online about this the most famous flea market in Paris so I'll not write too much but you need to get to the heart of this market and then go to the west end of it where the real bargains are; the banana boxes of junk but at the high end there are shops of ornate baroque furniture so this place has an amazing range and feast for the eyes. Orientate yourself from Rue des Rosiers. I love the Marche Vernaison off that road but it's too expensive for me though lovely to look at everything here. I love these town houses on one of the roads near here, the whole market is like a small town itself.

I wouldn't say I'm a hat person particularly but I couldn't resist the displays in this shop. And if you come here be sure to have lunch at the amazing La Recyclerie which is right by Porte de Clignancourt metro line 4, the market is 5 or 10 mins walk from here.

These coffee pots were in the Marche Vernaison; there are many named markets within the whole market area.

And here are some of my finds from across these three markets. I presume the bigger metal disc is a stencil to sieve an icing sugar pattern on a cake - I may even use that in my kitchen! I cant wait to rewire the little turquoise glass stand and see if I can do something with that.
I only ever went to Porte de Vanves market in the south once, (Sat/Sun only) it was mostly antiques, hardly any bargains so I never gave it another go, but it's great to look at and maybe there is a bargain in there somewhere.

All the Fun of the Fair and More

In the world of visual art it's often Folk Art that moves me more than other genres. I was so thrilled to discover Dingles Fairground Heritage Centre in Devon. Since I'm split between Devon and London I've so missed the buzz and culture of London when in the west country, (I made a studio here to be near my old mum since her stroke) then happily via the blogosphere I found Dingles on The British Bible of Taste - Thank you! which in turn I had found following a link from Jo Waterhouse's fantastic, witty blog Toot as in Foot. 

Devon is huge and luckily Dingles is only a 40 minute drive from here - I only recently learned to drive, not so easy in middle age but very necessary in the countryside - so, great to let rip on the dodgems on arrival!

This is a collection of vintage, working rides; carousel, ghost train, waltzers etc housed in one of two large farm sheds. Also there are a collection of working one armed bandits, a hall of mirrors and penny arcade games - take 1p, 2p and 10p pieces.

We had fun on all the rides and the dodgems twice but really the second barn was my favourite, housing a huge collection of absolutely stunning fairground art - I thought I'd died and gone to heaven here, it really is like somewhere that only exists in your dreams.

Behind the Chariot Racer I spotted this workbench, I love to see work areas, here there is clearly a dedicated team restoring and maintaining the rides and artwork.

There is so much to feast your eyes on here, these photos are a tiny percentage, there is tons to see including penny arcade machines from different eras. There is also alot to hear with the old fairground organs playing traditional music, I shall definitely be going back to Dingles many times!

Amongst my favourite artwork were some large screens of boxers painted in the 1920's; apparently you could challenge the boxer and get in the ring with him, can't imagine that happening today.
Dingles is a good day out with a nice cafe and shop, good selection of postcards (not always the case is it!?) and an illustrated guide for £4, also disabled access so I will be taking my mum in her wheelchair to see the artwork, don't think I'll get her on a ride but you never know!

Recent Treasures

These twin dogs called my name from a stall in Tavistock Market. How feeble is my attempt to not acquire too much more stuff.....but I'd never seen a pair like these, a fun variation on the classic Staffordshire spaniels. They were £15, again I thought maybe I'd give them as a present but actually they're not going anywhere!

 
I love the very straight legs of the little puppies.

More things from the same market, some from the £1 table, the little scissors I thought I'd use in a chandelier, the little fridge I just couldn't resist, might keep some earrings in it. The old jug has a little crack but beautiful fern engravings on it. And purely for my work so needing no justification 2 fantastic sets of pastry cutters £15 for the 2 large sets. They have mucky pastry on them still - just like the good old days of car booting (20 years back) when I found loads of this stuff and no-one else wanted it and thus the chandeliers could grow. And four of the 12 pressed punch cups I found - it's not always easy to find nice ones and these are a style I don't usually see.

From a Devon charity shop; Woodside animal rescue, for 50p I had to get this because of the accordion!

A boot sale sweep; old hooks and mature hinges all 20p each, hoping to use the hinges in a chandelier. Other odds for my work and then something I  really don't need - a lidded baking dish; I could become a Pyrex fanatic if I let myself because the design is so great. I love the lids on these dishes, they sit underneath well, and right way up or upside down on top or the lid can be a separate plate. It's the decoration on this one that appealed, I love those French style drawings of onions etc - this was £1 - so had to come with me.
I found 5 things in the house that can go to the charity shop so I've almost justified the recent haul.

Recent Treasures

On my way to Dartmoor Prison Museum (quirky and worth a visit) I found a charity shop I hadn't known before and despite thinking I've got a grip on acquiring more stuff....well it seems I haven't. The toast rack and glasses are permitted because they're for my work, but the teapot was £1, so I had to have it. In fact sometimes I buy things that are now fashionable to collect even if I don't want them myself, because I have done a vintage stall and sold things off, but I don't know if I'll get around to doing this again. So the teapot was going to be to sell on or more likely for a friends birthday but then I had alot of people around this week and only this big teapot could cope.

The collection of hat pins are from a charity shop in Tavistock, £1 for 7, so great bargains all round.

This little painting on hardboard was £3 in Tavistock market, from a stall holder who I think has a good eye for things and I do try to mostly resist. I got my wooden spectator stand from her. Yes I don't need any more paintings but this was small, lovely, a bargain and I love that it's of a craft/industry, it's so so charming - had to have it!

And these handsome compressed recycled paper things are Jailhouse Briquettes from the Prison Museum shop; £2.50 for a big bag so I'm trying them out in the wood burner. I confess to buying them because they look so amazing. They work and are good for filling in gaps between larger logs in the wood-burner.

Brixton Market and more

If you're an about town kind of person and live or visit London you'll know about the growth and growth of Brixton Market. It has become a serious food and vintage destination. I love what Seven have done with suitcases and trunks for tables, and big packing labels for menus; the food is Spanish and tapas and it's next door to Casa Morita (Mexican) in Market Row arcade. Seven is open from 8am for breakfast.

At Breads Etc., you can make your own toast and wrap up in blankets if needs be - how cosy.

In Brixton Village arcade Cornercopia has fabulous local food. This is the foodie king of the market, so it's not a cheap snack place, more of a treat, and really great food. I had a halloumi type cheese made in Bermondsey with roasted beetroot and red onion, very delicious, my mum had duck - her favourite - cooked perfectly. It's a small menu (3 or 4 main courses max) and there's always a vegetarian dish included. They serve British wine and as much local stuff as possible, I believe they've even served bread from wheat milled at the restored Brixton Windmill.

But do not fear - the original Brixton Market stalls have not been squeezed out by the rejuvenation, there were alot of empty units for years.





Vintage Fans
This Saturday 19th November check out a new Vintage market on Brixton Station Road by the Recreation Centre. New markets every Saturday, info here.
And.......

an 8 minute walk up Somerleyton Road and turn left will bring you to the 2011 Stirling Prize winner (architectural) the Evelyn Grace Academy by Zaha Hadid.